Thursday, November 27, 2008

Closing Notes on Tianjin

Thank you those of you who have written recently. As always these posts are late, disorganized, and un- proofread. I apologize on all of those points. There are only a couple of things I would like to say about our last couple days in Tianjin.

First, in true Minnesotan fashion, the weather. Tianjin has a serious pollution problem. Honestly, after a weekend in Beijing I pine for some nice, crisp, clean Beijing air. There is a large needle-like antenna-tower-thing behind our dorm that should be able to be seen from the entire college. I was in my dorm a couple of days ago I honestly couldn’t see it. It’s a huge tower a block behind my dorm AND I COULDN’T SEE IT. I was even wearing my glasses. The Chinese bicyclists sometimes wear facemasks and stuff, but, honestly, the only solution that I’ve managed to come up with is to convince myself that Tianjin is the sister city of San Francisco. Keep saying “It’s just the fog” and it seems fine. I also love how the Chinese grade their weather. They say things like “Today’s air is not good.” Not only does the air sound sick but also sounds somehow morally lacking. Also, calling air that turns my snot black “not good” is understatement on the level of Hawaii being humid and the polar ice caps being a mite chilly. I was running a couple of days ago and I am pretty sure I got acid sweat. I looked outside and was like, I can almost see my hands, it’s just the morning fog at three in the afternoon, and I have a lot of energy, I am going for a run. Chinese people, by the way, don’t go jogging they believe such frivolous activities should be done on treadmills indoors and, after the run, I quite agree. I got all dressed up and was running quite fast when I felt pricklings on my skin. Then slowly as I continued running I realized that all parts of my body that were sweating had dull burn that was very uncomfortable. It took me five minutes to name the feeling acid sweat. I hate to think what the air is doing to my lungs.

Second, my Chinese friend. From the outset of the program we were assigned Chinese friends to help us with homework. I gave her a call before the midterm to meet up with her and ask a few questions. She is an excellent conversationalist whose English is sufficiently good that speaking Chinese is both embarrassing and counterproductive. To get into college here you need to be able to speak a good deal of English so basically all students want to practice their English with the ‘foreigner’ anyway. We met up a couple of times after that. She had a couple funny things that she said. One, in the middle of one of our conversations she leaned across the table with a self-satisfied, conspiratorial smile and said, “I know someone who believes in God.” I tried to keep from laughing as I congratulated her. That’s a sentence I don’t hear very often. Second, the Chinese are very interested in the US election taking place right now. At some point she asked me who I was supporting in the presidential election and I mentioned that I had worked for the Obama campaign during the Iowa primaries. She looked at me and, with a somewhat professorial tone, asserted that Obama was a rather unsavory word for African-American. She then asked me if I hated such people. The easy part of the response was to say no. The hard part was to form an explanation to her questioning and somewhat skeptical eyes and her repeated usage the offensive word before mentioned. I think even if she was convinced as to my lack of racism (which is unlikely) I am positive that she is convinced that every other white American (including my classmates) have a Confederate flag tattooed somewhere on their bodies and attend lynching after church every Sunday. It’s disturbing in the face of those misapprehensions that the Chinese still like America.

Third, Jingju. On the final day of Jingju (Peking Opera Class) those of us who felt like it paid 50 kuai to dressed up and painted in the traditional Chinese opera style. The pictures are, I think, self explanatory. I was lame and studied for my test.

Fourth, finals. The Chinese culture final was interesting. We were told a couple days before the test a list of poems, names, and idioms to memorize. Although, the amount needed to be memorized was fairly large, we study Chinese. This is the kind of academics we are good at-- bulk memorization. I left it with the distinct feeling that I had somehow cheated. I memorized it all and then evacuated it from my brain onto the page as quickly as possible. The class itself is fascinating. My initial impression was that it was like a history class only minus dates and facts. However, really our textbook is wonderful and provides a summary of all history. The class has nothing to do with it. The class is about what the Chinese tell their children the history is. It is the legends, the scraps of poetry, the idioms, and, of course, the field trips to actual sites. We also had an essay which was very manageable. Everything is graded very easily.

Before coming to China, I had been told that the Tianjin program was basically a vacation. This was in no way why I wanted to go but I was told explicitly that the academics were not in the least bit rigorous and that Zhao Laoshi was occasionally hard to find. Both these statements do not represent my experience in the slightest. The workload is at the same time manageable and impossible. Yes, you could put almost no effort into the class and end up with a decent grade, but, that’s not the point. To live up to the teachers’ expectations of how much we should retain and understand to the core of our souls I would need to work literally every spare moment I have. Especially for those of us in the class who either have not been in China all summer, or whose parents don’t speak to them exclusively in Chinese. The grammar surprisingly enough is often what strikes me as difficult. The book lacks any explanation of grammar and considers a single example sentence to be sufficient preparation for tests. Our homeworks almost exclusively cover things we do not discuss until after we have handed them in. It is not the hardest class I’ve taken but it is far from the spoon fed A that I had been told so much about. It also often feels that not only are we cramming to much information to retain but I honestly, occasionally, think that the class is worsening my Chinese. I just spend too much time doing homework and not enough talking to Chinese people. Second, Zhao Laoshi is, one, easy to find and, two, very actively involved in our lives. He treated us all to bubble tea and made himself available for questions the night before the final. I see him almost everyday either on the walk to breakfast or leaving the gym or something that he has planned. The program has been without any serious problems and Zhao Laoshi has always been available to talk with and has been more than sympathetic to all questions and problems people have had.

Finally, karaoke. Chris and David performed in an international students singing competition. The wowed the world (and what seemed like the entire population of Nankai University) with an inspired rendition of some sappy Chinese pop song. Pointing at various girls in the audience when lyrics like “I love you” came up (the girls usually responded by laughing, turning red, shaking their heads and saying “No”) and throwing candy into the audience.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

I have received numerous requests to write more. So, as a servant to the whims of a tyrannical public, I wanted to, with all possible expediency, cooperate: M O R E.

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Saturday 10/17/08

Terrifying. Easily the most terrifying experience I’ve had so far in China. I took a shower this morning. (All good stories start that way.) While in the shower I was singing thinking about the ridiculous amount of work that I should have done yesterday. Life was good. Then everything changed… I had just put shampoo in my hair (and finished singing Redemption Song in broken Chinese) when the water pressure became very very low. It then became a reasonable water pressure (meaning 3 times the normal water pressure here.) This seemed strange. I reached for a towel and rubbed just enough soap from my face so that I could open my eyes. Everything was yellow. All of the water was yellow, the floor of the tub was yellow, the drops of soapy water falling from my head were yellow. I immediately knew that my liver had exploded. I’ve been watching pirated episodes of House. If anything is yellow (and I mean anything) then the liver is leaking. If everything is yellow there must have been an explosion. While trying discover where so much liquid could have burst from my body without me noticing I turned around and found the shower raining me in yellow water. I don’t mean slightly yellow water. I mean Oak yellow. Aslan mane yellow. It was the kind of water that was in Atlantis in the third Aladdin movie after they drop the hand of Midas. I stepped back covered in soap and watched. I cupped some in my hands and smelled. It didn’t smell like sewage; that was a relief. Ten minutes later it returned to clear water, I rinsed hesitantly, dressed, and ran downstairs to ask if other people had had the same thing. Lydia said she had and claimed that it was rust from the pipes. I tell you this, either the pipes are made out of gold or that’s just what They want you to think. Sorry I’ve been behind on the posting this last stretch of the Tianjin program is miserable. 2 finals, 1 final essay, and packing. I can’t wait till Thursday. Feedback, as always, is encouraged, requested, and begged for.

Sunday 10/11/08

This morning we went to the Confucian Temple which was cool. It was actually I think the most tourist friendly historical site I’ve seen in China. The plaques next to buildings were in both Chinese and perfect English and the entire temple was completely deserted. It smelled a little bit funny because the moat had recently been drained and there was a bunch of rotting plant material, but overall it was great. It’s interesting how much emphasis the Chinese place on their writing system. Where as in the west at this kind of place I feel like there would be art (statues, paintings, etc.) instead there are huge stone columns covered in Chinese characters.

We ate lunch and went to the Science museum. Almost everyone went into geek overdrive and disappeared to look at the exhibits that are most closely related to their majors. Lacking a major personally I needed to sprint from exhibit to exhibit. The museum itself is huge. Luckily I couldn’t understand the majority of the plaques which spead things up considerably. We also watch an Omnimax Movie. It started with hula dancers and Crosby, Stills and Nash. At first this seemed an odd juxtaposition. Then the screen said “narrated by Liam Neeson” at the exact moment it started jabbering away in Chinese. It was great.

Also for those of you who are interested on Friday those of us who did not go to Beijing participated in some international student sports competition. We apparently did well. John apparently brought his huge American flag and waved it around on his shower curtain pole. John and Divya were the winning team for piggy back races. We placed in every event we competed in and… yeah, well, I ate a scorpion.

Saturday 10/10/08

Qianmen Hostel is great. It is literally a stone’s throw from Tiananmen Square. The guys have a quad and the girls have a triple. The rooms are small, smell like freshly cut wood, and are less than 10 dollars a night. We have a nice lounge, great location, friendly staff. We also have internet! I would give up the tv, refrigerator, room service, personal shower we currently have at Tianjin (and my first born child) for just some fast wireless internet. I could do homework in half the time. I could keep in contact with people so much better. I could post more frequently. I paid for an 1hr of internet to try to watch part of the presidential debate. I loaded 5min in 1 hr. In a celebration of internet we all watched an episode of the Daily Show and the Saturday Night Live Vice Presidential debate sketch before bed last night. It was great.

Because I had no new clothing or a towel I was required to use my T-shirt as a towel this morning which left me in my, finally dry, jacket. We took the subway to the Temple of Heaven. The exact purpose of the Temple of Heaven was never completely clear to me. What I do know is it is huge, pretty, has amazing architecture and rose gardens and that today was broilingly hot. The center of the complex is a massive building that makes a pleasant break from the Chinese obsession with red. I bought a T-shirt of it at the first opportunity just so I could change out of my jacket and stop sweating. The troubling thing about these places is that beautiful and breathtaking as all of it is I feel like I’ve become desensitized to the awe that they are supposed to inspire. Perhaps its best to never travel and just see one incredible thing before you die. I don’t know.

We went to lunch at a place next door and Rachel said that she wanted to go to the Pearl Market. I managed to buy a towel and some socks there. Pretty sure I got ripped off. Perhaps they could see the need in my eyes. Rachel said that she got a pearl necklace that was initially being sold at 40 USD for about 15. There was also a toy market where I met a very charming couple who were in charge of a stand full of puzzles. They gave me one and said if I could solve it they would toss it in free with the other one. Oh. Irritating. I got it completely by luck. There were also shops selling helicopters, gameboys, scooters, skateboards, legos, it’s amazing how quickly one can go from communism to such aggressive, rampant and primarily illegal capitalism. I’m impressed. We tried to go to the ancient observatory. Zach and I tried to scale the walls with limited success. We then returned to Wangfujing and had starfish. It tastes like cardboard on the outside and the inside (which is what you’re supposed to eat) is some nondescript soft, squishy, dark meat that did not taste like fish or really anything but squishy wetness.

Friday 10/9/08

Ok. These posts are going to be excessively long. I’m sorry. Last week I was talking with people and suggested going to Beijing for the weekend. So we did. We= Alan, Allison, Me, Peter, Rachel, Rita, and Zach (I’m never sure when I alphabetize myself whether I should alphabetize Noah, me, myself, or I. So I decided to do all of them.) The train ticket was 36 kuai (5 USD) at a shop on campus.

I’ve had bad experiences trying to do laundry here. First I postponed doing laundry until just past the point of being disgusting. I then did two loads using the washing machine in the dorm. My laundry card did not work so I used Alan’s for two washes. There was a problem, however. My clothing would enter the wash bad smelling and normally shaped and leave it better smelling and stretched to accommodate extra limbs. Also, it didn’t seem to clean the clothing only to make it smell better. So I decided to do my laundry by hand. They sell the equipment (a bucket) on the street for a dollar and so I bought one. I reached the point of being completely out of laundry I could decently re-wear on Wednesday, but because I was studying for a test I wore pajama’s to class and did all of my laundry on Thursday night. Hand washing is fine. I did the first couple shirts and then got into a groove and went through washing the rest of my clothing. Something about the repetitiveness, the calming splash of quickly browning water, the warming friction of the wash and cooling freshness of the rinse is so calming, so…

I woke up in a daze on Friday morning to realize that every piece of clothing I owned was very wet an hanging from something in my room. I also realized that I was supposed to pack for Beijing. Nothing was packable, nothing was wearable. I went to class soaking wet. I could not bring myself to pack a soaking towel or soaking underwear or anything else with my computer, so, Friday afternoon I went to Beijing with only the, still wet, clothes on my back.

We took a taxi to the train station which at first led us to the conclusion the taxi driver was either lost or insane and, once there, led us to the same conclusion about the planning commission. There are many, seemingly unnecessary, and certainly sketchy underpasses that lead to a big shiny pretty new train station that is only ½ complete. The train ride was about an 1 hour and 20 minutes and was very nice and convenient. We dropped our stuff off at the Hostel we’re staying at an went out for Peking Duck. It is sort of disappointing to be back to where people are not excited to meet a white person. It is also liberating not to be stared at. Peking duck was expensive, greasy, and good in the same guilty way fried ice cream is. Fried ice cream, by the way, is delicious.

NIGHTMARKETS! (Wangfu jing) This is totally why I wanted to come to Beijing. First the bad news: really pricy, really touristy. Good news: fried ice cream. What a wonderful idea. They put a scoop of ice cream on a piece of wonder bread. You may ask “How can they make that any better?” Well. You surround the ice cream with a little bit of whipped cream so that it looks like a slice of wonder bread with a huge blood clot on it. Then you deep fry it. Why doesn’t Minnesota have this? They fry everything else. It’s warm and crunchy on the outside and cool and refreshing on the inside. They sell other amazing things here. Deep fried 100 year tofu that made me think I was going to be sick just walking past it. Noodles, dumplings, soups, dumplings filled with soup, candied fruit, meat, hairy looking fish, fried silk worms, whole fish, crickets, 什么的。 The vendors are really funny. Their English is limited to the words “buy,” “hello,” “free,” and the name of their goods. This leads to the hilarious man at the far end who stands on a chair shouting “buy one sheep penis, centipede no money.” I’ve had some bad experiences with centipedes and was excited to eat a fried one but I could feed myself for 4 days on the amount of money it cost for a single centipede so instead I opted for some fried scorpions. I’m not joking, or bragging, or anything, scorpion is really good. It is fried past the point of tasting like anything but a delicious crunchy piece of …something. I’m a big fan. I suspect it would be the ideal snack food for a movie. (Kukui Grove Cinemas, think about it.) I’m going to bed. Thank you those of you who have sent me emails. It looks good if you actually post it on the website. Gives the school evidence that people are actually reading me. Any input is great and the emails definitely improve my day. Ok. Thanks again.

Friday 10/9/08

Yesterday was the Midterm exam. It is very hard to cram 200 words/idioms into your head for a test. It is also very hard to memorize a bunch of grammar based solely on the 1 example in the book and quickly jotted down notes in Chinese that are often illegible and almost always unintelligible 2.5 weeks later. I’ve heard various things about the levels 1&2 tests. Most people said they were very reasonable and many said easy. I can say with only a little bit of exaggeration, however, that if I am not put on immediate academic probation after that test they’re not grading it properly. No that’s a lot of exaggeration-- I think. But it was tough, very tough. We were given 2 hours to do the test and 3 hours later I handed in my paper with the rest of the class and was still not done. I tend to feel a calm relief after tests and a sharp anxiety when they are being handed back. Realizing that I could conceivably get everything on a test wrong filled me with a strange elation. I think I should do that more often.

Interesting side note: There are access holes to the sewage system here everywhere. I think that the infrastructure of Nankai University is very old and can’t handle the current population. This is the only explanation I can come up with for why I see men everyday ladling sewage from multiple holes in the street in buckets. Sometimes you don’t see them you just see where they spilled on the street. (No, Mom, I am not barefoot.) This occurred to me just a little bit ago. I suspected that they were just transporting sewage to fill the University pond but I think old infrastructure is more likely. How the sewage gets in the pond remains a mystery…I suspect leprechauns.

Today in class we watched a movie called 活着 (To Live.) I was very impressed. It was funny, sad, well acted, well directed. I highly recommend it. Lydia and the most vertically challenged of the teachers (not one of my teachers) cried. I think, twice. It wasn’t really all that sad. It was, I thought, very similar in style and message to “Life is Beautiful.” It was nice though to rest a little. It’s been a while since I’ve felt well rested. The people on this trip are all very good academically. There is no competition but I feel like there is an unspoken standard of work that just weighs on you. Also, although the homework load is very manageable our days are always very full and the amount of information we are supposed to understand, retain, and use in conversation is very overwhelming. (This is probably just true for me.)